A Conversation with Amity Warme

“It's super important to push yourself out of that comfort zone and expose yourself to failure. And learning how to deal with that”.

Gonzo

Photo: Ian Dzilenski | @iandzlienski | www.iandzilenski.com

COVERGROUND December 24 2024

Amity Warme is the climber to watch if you’re into raw, stoked-up climbing. This Colorado native crushes some of the toughest and most radical lines out there. From her early days swinging a competition ice axe to crushing 5.13s on El Cap, she’s a prime example of grit and versatility. After a gymnastics injury redirected her path to climbing when she was younger, Amity adapted and thrived, diving deep into both her climbing and her outstanding approach to nutrition. She brings a breath of fresh air to the climbing world’s sometimes rigid views on diet; it was clear to me this was a climber I wanted to learn from, so naturally, I reached out.

Our conversation dives into how she builds a nutrition pyramid tailored for climbers, fuels for peak performance, sets future climbing goals, brings out the 'try-hard' spirit, and handles the inevitable injuries that come with pushing limits.

A Conversation With Amity:

“To kick things off could you share a quick key nutritional tip that climbers should keep in mind?”

Yeah totally just simply fueling adequately and not getting caught up in this whole mindset of chronic under eating.

“Do you remember how the transition from gymnastics to climbing was like? What did you feel translated to climbing the most?”

"Yeah, I feel there are some things that translate well. The biggest benefit I've gained from gymnastics that has helped me in climbing is the ability to work really hard and pursue long-term goals. That delayed gratification of achieving a goal is significant for me. Upper body strength and flexibility are helpful, but I don't feel they correlate as directly as people sometimes think.”

“Are ground-up ascents driven more by the appeal of their purity, or do you find the challenge of doing a route from the ground up to be the main motivation?”

“Yeah, I think it's a bit of both. When I started climbing in Yosemite, the first couple of walls I did there, like Free Rider and Golden Gate, I honestly was so naive in the sport. I didn't have this super staunch ground-up ethic of 'this is the only way to do it.' I just didn't know any better. And it ended up being the partners I was doing it with, and just the circumstances where that's how it lined up that we did it. But I didn't have this staunch impression that that's the only appropriate way to climb. I have since learned a lot more about it, and do appreciate the ethos. And I think for me, if I'm doing a big wall climb, maybe once or twice a year, right? The rest of the time, I'm going sport climbing, or doing single pitch stuff, or rehearsing a hard trad pitch. And I think when I choose to go climb a big wall, it's cool to put myself in that situation of going ground up and choosing that. I love the level of adventure because I am only doing that a couple of times a year, so it’s cool to be in that situation.”

Photo: Nelson Klein

Amity on the route El Niño on El Cap in Yosemite National Park

"What initial steps can climbers take to enhance their nutrition, particularly if they currently have an unhealthy perspective on diet and nutrition?”

"Yeah, when I'm working with someone, the first thing we want to establish is the fueling around your training and climbing, whether it's training or climbing, by ending that with really good nutrition. So, before, during, and after, we're making sure to implement protein, carbohydrates, and overall fueling for that session, so that you can get the most out of it and recover afterward to be ready for the next day. That’s the biggest thing to put in place first. The second thing I do is help provide some structure in getting enough protein, which involves spreading it out so you're getting a serving of protein three to four times throughout the day. I like to think about it as a sports nutrition pyramid: the base layer checks if we are getting enough calories—are you fueling adequately? The second layer focuses on macronutrients: how we are breaking down protein, carbs, fats throughout the day. The next tier is about timing: how we are timing your meals and snacks, and fueling around your training and climbing. Then, at the very top of it all, the last couple of percents are about supplements—the icing on the cake, so to speak."

“What are some of the staple foods you rely on for daily fuel, whether you're sport climbing or tackling a multi-pitch? What do you typically bring with you on these climbs?”

"Like I mentioned, I'm putting a structure in place to have protein throughout the day, and while I'm out climbing, I'm eating a ton of carbohydrates since that's your primary fuel source for high-intensity activity. Often, I'll have Greek yogurt with fruit, and sometimes I'll take a Tupperware of overnight oats or some type of oatmeal, plus more fruit. I like having a salty-sweet combo, so I'll snack on dried fruit and breakfast seeds, which is convenient when doing a multipitch. I also take bars; one of my favorites is from a small Colorado Springs-based company called Enduro Bites. They're marketed toward cyclists but are super easy to eat, taste good, and are high in carbs. Occasionally, I'll have a protein bar or something similar.”

“Any nutritional myths you hear that go around the climbing community?”

"I think the biggest misconception is that being the lightest in weight is always better, which is a really tough topic, right? It works to lose weight and be super light for a while, but eventually, you hit a point where it's no longer beneficial—you're not recovering, you start getting injured, you're getting sick, and you're no longer able to make the training adaptations needed to continue improving. So, it's important to remember that becoming a lighter climber doesn’t necessarily mean you're becoming a better climber because your lightest weight is not necessarily your strongest weight.”

“Do you have a structured training regiment around certain projects when you’re getting ready to project?”

"I haven’t focused on this before, but if I had to pinpoint my strengths in climbing, I'd say it's my all-day endurance. I have a large capacity to work throughout the day, climbing multiple pitches and handling all the hauling without getting totally wrecked. However, my weakness, which I'm actively training, is higher-end strength and power, especially dynamic movements. Wall-style climbing seems to come naturally to me, where I've been able to approach those objectives in whatever my current state of fitness is and still manage to do them. But I definitely need to work on my high-end strength and power. About eight months ago, I started working with a coach, and it’s been helpful to identify specific weaknesses and focus on them. There’s a huge emphasis on finger strength, lock-off strength, and board climbing. My general routine is built around a three-day cycle: one day climbing or working on an outdoor project, a training day at the gym, followed by a rest day."

Photo: Samuel Crossley

Amity on Book of Hate 5.13d in Yosemite National Park

“Whats a typical rest day for you? You strike me as someone who would have a hard time resting”.

"I’ve been working on taking my resting more seriously. A lot of the times I'll go for a couple of walks and listen to a nerdy nutrition podcast about the latest nutrition research, something along those lines. And I usually go to the gym and do different lifting exercises, not like climbing related, some oppositional stuff. Those are typical rest days."

“Ive heard you talk about the sunk cost theory and how climbing falls into that and if so why?”

"Oh man, that's a super interesting question. For me personally, it's really easy to not get stuck necessarily, but to sit in this comfort zone of trying things that are challenging but I know I can probably do. In whatever grade range that is, I’ll probably have to work for this and have to try it for a number of days, but eventually, I'll be able to do it. It’s easy to get into that comfort zone, and it's really important for my development as a climber to be pushing outside of that at certain times of the year and exposing myself to failure by trying routes or objectives that I might not have success on. As uncomfortable as that may feel, I think it's super important for the development and eventually being able to climb harder and harder things and find my limit in climbing. That’s not to say that's what everyone needs to do, but for me, right now, it’s important to push myself and find what my limit is. And the only way to climb a harder grade is to get on a harder grade. I can’t climb fifteen 5.13+ and expect to climb 5.14b, right? I have to try 14b to climb 14b. It’s super important to push yourself out of that comfort zone and expose yourself to failure, and learning how to deal with that. But that’s the other side of the coin: that sunk cost of how much time is it worth putting into that singular project when you know you could be climbing all these other things. It's an interesting balance or compromise.”

Photo: Ian Dzilenski | @iandzlienski | www.iandzilenski.com

“Where do you think that balance is for you?”

"I think it's interesting, and I’m still developing my ideas around this. I believe you can train to reach a peak level of fitness before needing to cycle back to training mode or whatever it might be. With my coach, Joel, we have these times of the year that are 'explore phases' where we're climbing a bunch of routes and engaging in different training modalities, building a base repertoire of climbing skill and proficiency. Then we have 'express phases' of the year, which involve less time but that's when we really hone in on a specific route or project. It’s been a helpful mindset for me.”

"Have you ever experienced injuries that not only interrupted your training phase but also necessitated a focus on physical therapy and rehabilitation instead?”

"Thankfully, I'm fairly robust and don't get injured often, but when I do, it tends to be pretty traumatic. One of the main ones was when I partially tore my labrum in my shoulder on 'The Honeymoon is Over,' a route on the Diamond in Rocky Mountain National Park. It’s a big alpine route with a bunch of pitches of 5.13, and I had been kind of projecting it over the summer. It’s a terrible place to project things because you get stormed on pretty much every day, there’s a seven-mile hike just to get to it, and it’s at 14,000 feet—kind of epic. The very last move of the route on redpoint is a big throw out to the side, and I caught it and sagged on it a little bit, and I felt my shoulder tear. Thankfully, I was able to pull it in. Then, almost exactly a year ago, I ruptured my A2 pulley in my middle finger. It was a fairly long rehab process, but thankfully, it's completely better now, and I don’t even think about it."

“Out of all the disciplines which one do you feel you utilize the most within your climbing?”

"I think it's been helpful to have diversity in where, say, a big wall objective is kind of a culminating experience of the year. I think it's helpful and really essential to be able to do a hard boulder and have the capacity for sport climbing as well as be proficient in placing trad gear. You have to have all these skills and be able to put them all together to have success free climbing hard on a big wall. Going back to what we talked about, what I need to work on is that strength and power, so I need to probably train board style climbing or bouldering or hard sport climbing. I had been training monos, and I recently did a hard route here in Arizona where I had to pull through on a little mono pocket, and that previous training helped for that; it was prep for trying Cobra Crack again also."

“Going back to give it a shot again, cobra crack?”

"I'd like to try this spring; we'll see how the weather holds up. I need it to be pretty dry to have a good chance at it.”

“Any places in the country or world you want to get out to and explore?”

"There are so many places in the United States that I haven’t been to yet. For instance, I've never climbed in Bishop, and I would like to spend more time in the Red River Gorge."

“What's your controversial climbing take?”

"Nothing super controversial, but I do believe there's a way of being vague or inaccurate on social media regarding climbing, particularly in the style and way it's completed. There should be an emphasis on integrity within the climbing community and honest reporting of personal achievements."

We wrapped up our conversation feeling motivated and amped for my next climbing session. It was truly awesome to dive into her knowledge as a dietitian and her contagious passion for climbing. As an amateur climber, I find it exciting to hear from an elite athlete about the nuances and insights of climbing. I eagerly anticipate our next chat to catch up on the latest developments in her climbing career. Keep up with her latest climbs and projects by following her on Instagram at @Amity.warme. For a deeper dive into her climbing and dietary expertise, check out her website for everything from climbing content to answers to nutrition-related questions.


Big Wall Achievements

  • El Niño | 5.13c, 25 pitches, ground-up

  • El Corazon | 5.13b, 32 pitches, ground-up

  • FRIAD: Freerider In A Day | 5.13a, 32 pitches, self-supported, no rehearsal or stashing

  • Father Time | 5.13b, 20 pitches, ground-up

  • Golden Gate | 5.13a, 33 pitches, ground-up

  • Freerider | 5.13a, 31 pitches, ground-up

    Multipitch

  • Sendero Luminoso | 5.13d, 13 pitches

  • The Honeymoon is Over | 5.13c, 8 pitches

  • Stélmexw | 5.13c, 5 pitches

  • Mark of the Beast | 5.13b, 5 pitches

  • Barnacle Scars | 5.13, 3 pitches, First Ascent

Trad

  • Book of Hate | 5.13d

  • Stingray | 5.13d

  • Tainted Love | 5.13d R

  • Enter the Dragon | 5.13+ R, First Female Ascent