CLIMBER

Michael Vaill

  • Holds the record for the fastest known time (17 hours 55 minutes) on the Yosemite Triple Crown, a link-up of three big wall routes in Yosemite, which include Mt. Watkins, El Capitan, and Half Dome.

  • He's a Quadfather, having climbed Mt. Watkins South Face, El Capitan's The Nose, Washington Column South Face, and Half Dome's RNWF in 21 hours and 50 minutes.

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Age: 32
Born: Augusta, Georgia
Started Climbing: 2016
Initial Climbing: Weekend trips from San Diego to Joshua Tree and Taquitz while attending grad school at UCSD.

What excites you about climbing?
Exploring mountains and moving over rock.

Was there a moment that opened your eyes your potentials in climbing?
Yes, during a trip to Taquitz. I saw climbers on a route called "The Vampire" (5.11). It seemed out of reach at the time , but eventually a friend convinced me to just try it later on.

What’s your biggest motivation in climbing?
Moving over rock, flowing, and covering lots of terrain. That's why bouldering doesn't stoke me as much.

First big wall?
The Nose in Yosemite. We practiced hauling, pendulums, and wall techniques at El Cajon Mountain—highly recommended for anyone wanting to climb walls.

Ever epic’d on a climb ?
On Steck-Salathe with a party of four we bivvied until sunrise and made a small fire.

Favorite climbing experience?
Climbing "Le Voyage selon Gulliver" on the Grand Capuchin in Chamonix. It was surreal, especially since I'd watched Catherine Destivelle climb that route in videos felt like a full circle moment.

Favorite type of hold or crack?
A hand jam.

Climbing hot take?
Nobody should fix ropes to Sickle Ledge.

How has your climbing changed since you started?
The biggest change is in my confidence. Obviously, the physical aspect improves too, but confidence makes the biggest difference.

Dream climbing destination?
Yosemite Valley.

Favorite food on the wall?
Instant Miso Soup, and Cliff Bars for speed climbs.

If you could climb with anyone, dead or alive, who would it be?
Warren Harding.

What's your typical diet like?
I focus on hitting my protein intake. If I’m short, I’ll have a protein shake. During this Yosemite season, I ate a ton of pizza specially pizza deck pizza , but typically on a big day of climbing it’s a huge breakfast with oats, eggs, milk, fruit, and trail mix.

If you weren’t climbing and living out of a van, what would you be doing?
Probably working for a biotech company, living somewhere on the California coast.

What are you looking forward to next? Any big plans?
I’m stoked to go sport climbing.

What’s your message to anyone reading this who wants to pursue records and climb?
Get after it and believe in yourself. Don’t forget: climbing is the funnest thing in the world. If you aren’t having fun, you probably shouldn’t be doing it.

Favorite cam?
.1-.2 Black Diamond Offset Cam (the McDonald’s cam).

If you were a crack, what crack would you be?

Tips corner crack.